Posts Tagged ‘ staying cool ’

Strategies for Staying Cool

Jun 8th, 2009 | By Aaron Newton | Category: Projects

As I turned the corner and walked into the garden I could clearly hear it running. The greenhouse fan was blowing full force. The weather was suppose to be unseasonably warm this second week of March but I was still surprised by the mid 80 degree temperatures we received. I was happy that the fan in the greenhouse was set to automatically kick on. If not we might have cooked our vegetable starts. So begins the wild warm weather of spring and summer in the southeast.

North Carolina is a difficult region to design for because its basic climate conditions are split so evenly between too hot for human comfort 42% of the time and too cold 46% of the time. It’s only Goldilocks for 12% of the year. However as a long time resident of NC I can attest to the fact that too hot is much more of a problem than too cold. Too cold in NC means low 20s which is more of an annoyance to those living in the Northeast while it’s almost guaranteed to be over 100 degree with a relative humidity level of 85% for at least a few days out of the summer. 90+ degrees and humid is a regular occurrence for many of us in the sunshine belt.

So for those of us who live in warm climates let’s talk briefly about how to stay cool before it gets too hot. Never mind those from colder climates who will make fun of us.

1. Acclimatize. Most people living in the US today are accustomed to spending almost all of their time within a narrow range of temperature between 68 and 72 degrees. Dare I say we have become a nation of weather whiners, complaining if the thermostat reads anything outside of our narrowly bound range of comfort. The human body is capable of remaining comfortable throughout a much wider range of temperatures. The key is to transition your body’s comfort level. As it gets hotter outside throughout the spring, let the temperature in your house warm up. We play A/C chicken, trying to see how long we can go without turning on our air conditioning. Usually we can get well into June. By that point we are no longer uncomfortable with temperatures in the upper 70s or low 80s.

2. Take your clothes off. I have a friend from Nebraska who is fond of saying, “If you’re cold put on a sweater, if you’re hot take off your shoes.” It seems almost intuitive that the easiest way to warm up in the winter is to put on more clothes and of course the opposite is true in the heat of the summer. It might be against your office dress code to show up in a bikini, but shedding the layers will definitely keep you cooler; especially exposing those extremities. Remember you radiate more heat from your head, arms and legs so try to keep them uncovered if you’re out of direct sunlight. Which leads to number three.

3. Stay out of direct sunlight. This is true as true for individual bodies as it is for interior spaces throughout homes and offices. If your body is going to be exposed to direct sunlight, it makes sense to wear light-colored, breathable clothing that keeps direct sun off of your skin and won’t absorb lots of heat.

Window treatments used to reduce heat lose in the winter in colder climates have their southern cousin in strategies to reflect direct sunlight from interior spaces in the summer in hotter climates. At my home we use white, 2″ wood blinds to reflect direct sunlight. If we’re home during the day we adjust the angle of the blinds so we can still see outside and have indirect light throughout our house but without receiving all the heat from direct sunlight. If we leave we close the blinds to reflect even more heat. Awnings work well too.

Proper overhang length is a great strategy for allowing winter sun in and keeping summer sun out.


Of course there’s more than one kind of overhang.

Deciduous trees offer a seasonal shade option. In the winter they have no leaves and allow in wanted sunlight and its heat. In the summer their leaves reflect the hot sunshine. Such trees are best placed on the south or southwestern side of a structure.

Just be sure to plant the tree close enough to the home to take advantage of this strategy.

It’s also worth noting that any work that can be done in the shade should be saved for the middle of the day. Work in the full sun in the early morning and early evening.

4. Stay wet. Nothing will cool you off like a evaporation! The phase change from liquid water to vapor requires a lot of energy. Wetting my hair for instances is one strategy I use to stay cool when I am working in the sun. There are mechanical strategies for doing this. Their effectiveness will depend on your climate.

5. Use the temperature swings. In many warmer climates the temperature is still much cooler as night. If your interior spaces are loading up with heat during the day, do your best to exchange this hot air for cooler air during the night. Depending on the humidity level it might make more sense to draw in cooler air from outside as oppose to trying to cool even hotter air trapped inside your home.

6. Seal and Insulate. If you are able to bring in cool air at night or if you’re using a mechanical system to chill your interior air you’ll want to keep that air from being warmed by outside air during the day. This means sealing air leaks so that mechanical systems aren’t pulling hot air from outside through air leaks in your building envelope. You don’t want to seal you structure air tight. That would be like living in a plastic bag and would invite mold and other problems. There are guidelines on how air tight your home should be but unless it was built by exceptional craftsmen it’s likely that you’re nowhere near the level of air tightness you could safely achieve. You can check this using a blower door test. The overhead attic door is usually the biggest air leak by the way. After you’ve sealed air leaks, insulate to further reduce heat gain.

7. Bring on the wind. Moving air will help not only to take advantage of temperature swings during cooler, nighttime temperatures but the movement of air over your body will help with evaporative cooling. We have ceiling fans in most rooms – especially bedrooms – and box fans for use in certain windows on certain nights. Be sure to properly care for your fan by checking it out each season and lubricating it, and your fan investment will last for years.

Here’s an old strategy for moving air without electricity. It’s called a heat chimney or cooling tower.

Those huge wrap around porches and tall plantation houses of the deep south start to make sense from a passive cooling standpoint with this strategy in mind. The modern version might look something like this diagrammatically speaking.


8. Take it easy. Southerns aren’t slow because we’re lazy, we’re just keeping cool! Rest or do light work during the middle of the day. there’s no reason to add heat to the equation by being in a hurry. It also makes sense to move more energy intensive activities outside like cooking or drying clothes.

9. Mooch coolth. If you’re trying to stay cool but you don’t want to turn down the thermostat try taking in a movie. The theater is likely to be very cool. Or visit the library, a museum or some other building that is temperature control and can give you some relief from the heat. The natural version of this is the forest. It’s going to be much cooler in the woods than it is in your front yard. Take advantage.

10. Look after each other. There is no reasons why people should die from heat stroke or exhaustion. Be sure to take care of people especially susceptible to the heat, like children and the elderly. This is the responsibility of all of us who are healthy and better able to regulate the temperature of our own bodies.

I’ll leave you with a document (pdf warning) that describes some of these strategies in more detail. Stay cool!

http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Cooling/Shading/NCSolarCenterCooling13coolng-1.pdf



Cool Summer: Shade Screen Made Easy

Jun 7th, 2009 | By Edson | Category: Lead Article

What if you could keep your house at least 12F degrees cooler than the outside, in the height of summer, without air conditioning, fans, or any other power? How often would you even need A/C at that point? If you have a pair of scissors, an afternoon, and a couple hundred dollars or less to make it happen, read on.

There’s a material out there called shade screen. It’s like window screen, but it’s designed to block more light. Apparently it’s used most often in hot climates as a replacement for standard window screen, to cut down on sunlight. Similar products are used to keep greenhouses cool.

The window screen version doesn’t show up much in cooler, more seasonal climates. I’m not sure why. It could be because while blocking out the sun is good when it’s hot, it’s not really desirable when it gets cold. Lack of sunlight in winter can be depressing enough without any help from your window screens.

But still… commercially available shade screen can prevent 80-90% of the sun’s hot rays from entering your house. With summer temperatures here regularly over 90F, and plenty of humidity, I thought there must be a way to take advantage of this stuff without it being a giant pain, and without losing the winter sunshine.

My first thought was two sets of screens – one for summer, and one for winter. But that didn’t come close to passing the “pain-in-the-butt” test. My next thought was to attach the shade screen to the existing screen frames with velcro. That proved to be somewhat ineffective, as the sticky backing of the velcro heats up and becomes less sticky. The adhesion between the screen and the velcro wasn’t very good anyway.

Finally, I realized that most of our windows slide down from the top as well as up from the bottom. If I put the shade screen between the window and the original screen, and then pin the top of the shade screen by closing the window on it, I’d be all set. No muss, no fuss.

I removed one of our window screens and used the frame as a template to cut the shade screen. I put the original screen back in place, opened the window from the top, slid the shade screen down between the glass and the screen, arranged it to the best fit, and then closed the top part of the window.

It worked like a charm. On a hot July day, with the sun beating down, I compared the surface temperature of the window with the shade screen to another nearby window.

After ten minutes, there was a 21F degree difference!

Lucky for me, all but a few of our windows are the same size. I took a screen back out and used it as a template to cut shade screen for all the other windows. I cut it maybe an inch wider and a few inches longer than the frame. It couldn’t have taken an hour to cut enough for the whole house.

You may be wondering if it would be easier to just draw the curtains or hang shades in your windows. This shade screen approach has two major advantages: 1. You can still see out, and more importantly 2. The sunlight is blocked before it goes through the glass. Halting the sun’s rays after they’re already inside isn’t nearly as effective.

I’ve found that there are a number of other advantages to this approach, along with a couple minor drawbacks.

Advantages:

  • Easy to implement for summer. I’d estimate 30-45 minutes to put them in all the windows in our house.
  • Even easier to take down for cooler seasons. It took me less than 15 minutes to pull them all down, roll them up, and put them away.
  • If the window is open and there’s any wind at all, the bottom of the shade screen is free to blow in the breeze and let the air flow in.
  • If you want the shade screen out of the way – to let a breeze in, or to accomodate house plants – you can just roll it up as far as you need and tuck it behind the window pane.
  • You get a privacy effect. From the inside, you can see out just fine. From the outside looking in, it just looks black…
  • It cost me under $200 for a 100-foot roll of 36-inch screen, and I only used half of it for the whole house – a dozen double-hung windows, plus the sliding door.

Disadvantages:

  • If it’s raining and windy and you leave your window open, the shade screen will catch the water, and then fling it around the room as the wind blows the free-hanging bottom part of the screen
  • You get a “wavy” appearance because the shade screen is not pulled perfectly flat. (This photo makes it look worse than it is, but you get the idea.)

Of course, my approach won’t work in every house. Your windows may not be the same as mine, so you may have to come up with a different method if you’re going to try this.

I can tell you that getting it to stick directly to glass is challenging. We have a sliding glass door that gets a lot of afternoon sun. I first tried attaching the screen to the glass door with long strips of velcro. It quickly became clear that this wasn’t going to work because of the heat. The adhesive just wasn’t holding up. I tried sewing the velcro strips to the screen, which worked a little better, but the then the velcro adhesive failed on the glass surface – again because of the hot sun. My next attempt was with some suction cups. It worked “sort of,” so I bought more of them to see if there was strength in numbers. I haven’t had the chance to try it yet, but I give it a 50-50 shot. It’s a pretty big piece of shade screen, so it’s got a bit of weight to it – especially when it’s wet and windy. If anybody has suggestions, let me know.


At any rate, with the windows open at dusk, the whole house fan pulling in the cool night air, and the shade screen keeping the sun out during the day, we can consistently keep the house at least 12F degrees cooler than the outside temperatures on a hot summer day. If I can work out a way to keep it on the big west-facing sliding door, we might even get a few more degrees out of it.

For reference, I bought Phifer SunTex 80 from Wholesale Screens and Glass. (They also sell SunTex 90, which blocks even more sun.) I’m sure other vendors and similar products would do just as well.